Charleroi Postcard: The Rusting Pleasures Of The “Ugliest City In The World”

CHARLEROI — “We have to climb over these big pipes. Watch me do it — your foot should rest here to start, and then you slide like this…”

On a recent Sunday, Nicolas Buissart was guiding a group of eight curious people through the industrial wastelands of Charleroi, in the Wallonia region, and the former coal capital of Belgium.

We’d already had to climb over fences along the Sambre river, throwing ourselves over the water, clinging tightly to the metal frames, but this time the walk is starting to take on a more athletic tone.

Later, we’ll have to make our way through dense underbrush of nettles and thorns (shorts are not recommended), climb a steep slag heap on a precarious path, and keep our balance on the uneven ground — littered with various materials — of the cooling tower of an old power plant. A sign reads: “Strictly forbidden to enter the site”. We blithely pass by. It is not enough to discourage a group of young people from fearlessly jumping from a very tall brick chimney, held by ropes which, from the ground, seemed quite flimsy.

“You have to earn it,” says Buissart, speaking in English. “You enjoy this route more if you have to conquer it.”

For 15 years, he has been organizing alternative tours along the remnants of the industrial era of this former steel industry gem, which still struggles today to find a new purpose. Overseas, Charleroi has a bad reputation for poverty and insecurity. Most Belgians are familiar with it because of its airport, a hub for low-cost airlines. Having “a Carolo head,” as the locals are nicknamed (short for Carolorégiens), is not exactly a compliment.

In 2008, the Dutch daily de Volkskrant declared Charleroi the “ugliest city in the world” — a title that was exaggerated but garnered significant media attention.

 Unusual attractions

Buissart quickly recognized the marketing potential of this seemingly disgraceful label. “At the time, I was dating a Dutch woman who told me that a hotel in Amsterdam, called the worst in the Netherlands, was always fully booked. Customers wanted to experience it for themselves.”

In 2009, he launched Charleroi Adventure, which he described as an “urban safari.” He often wore a shirt with cheetahs and khaki Bermuda shorts, giving him a bit of an Indiana Jones look. His website listed unusual or off-putting attractions, like “The place where René Magritte’s mother committed suicide,” “The most depressing street in Belgium,” and “The house of Raymond la Science, from the Bonnot Gang,” which refers to an early 20th-century anarchist involved in crime.

Of course, the legendary “ghost metro stations” are also featured. In the 1960s, in response to demands for equal treatment between Flanders and Wallonia, the decision was made to build an oversized metro network in Charleroi, funded by federal resources. Following the regionalization of powers, the project proved far too costly, and some of the lines built were never put into service… until the recent European recovery plan that supported the network’s revival.

An aesthetic of decay

These urban curiosities resonated with an audience seeking the unexpected, including urban exploration (urbex) enthusiasts and travelers tired of heritage gems disfigured by overtourism. On that August Sunday, Jochen, a German tourist, explained he wanted to discover “the myth of Charleroi” for himself. His friend Axel, a professional photographer, was drawn to the murals and street art. Both came from Wuppertal, an industrial town bordering the Ruhr region, with a similar profile.

In terms of graffiti, visitors got their money’s worth. On a large wall of rusty metal, someone had written “CATASTROPHE.” Just a few steps from the entrance of the Providence metro station, another message read, “I’m dying, you’re dying, they’ll die.”

In Belgium, there are two kinds of coke: the white one from Antwerp and the black one from Charleroi.

The urban safari programs varied by audience: corporate seminars, groups of architects, and clubs of retirees who took a lighter route. That late summer Sunday featured individuals in good physical shape: two Germans, two Dutch, two Flemish, a Brit, and a Frenchman.

Urban exploration and celebrity encounters

The gigantic abandoned factories, empty warehouses, and towering chimneys punctuating the horizon exuded a true sense of poetry. These dilapidated installations, the epitome of decay, captivated Dutch photographer Anton Corbijn for a photoshoot with the rock band The Killers. Buissart regretted posting this visit on social media: “It earned me a visit from disgruntled bailiffs.”

His relationship with the authorities had long been rocky, marked by misunderstandings and conflicts, but it has recently normalized. Among other celebrities who participated in the safari was Belgian actress Cécile de France. “But to avoid making her uncomfortable, I pretended not to recognize her,” Buissart recalls.

Describing himself as an “artistic entrepreneur,” he added a theatrical improvisation dimension to his tours. Colorful and animated, the passionate “Carolo” told a thousand stories, performing grand gestures with his long arms during the safari. He was well aware he was quite the chatterbox, often concluding with “blah blah blah.”

The performing guide seamlessly blended history, geography, politics, culture, and anecdotes. He even explained the process of steel manufacturing, with a joke: “In Belgium, there are two kinds of coke: the white one from Antwerp and the black one from Charleroi.” Antwerp, the second-largest port in Europe, is one of the main entry points for cocaine into the continent.

Travel to “Carolofornia”

The expedition began in front of the central train station, stopping at a giant map etched into the concrete of a modern building. It recalled the origins of the fortress founded by the Spaniards in 1666 to contain French expansionism. Named in honor of King Charles II of Spain, Charleroi has long been strategically significant, coming under French, Austrian, Dutch, and German control. This backdrop allowed the guide to invoke historical figures such as the Prince of Talleyrand, an 18th-century French statesman and diplomat, Marie Antoinette, King Leopold II, the Duke of Wellington, and the late Belgian billionaire Albert Frère. He also mentioned Paul Magnette, the socialist mayor of Charleroi since 2012, who gained prominence in 2016 for opposing the signing of the free trade agreement between the European Union and Canada.

Along the route, Buissart highlighted successfully repurposed sites, such as Rockerill, a vast cultural center composed of four spaces hosting concerts and “industrial happy hours.” A sign reading “Carolofornia” proudly adorned a bar, showcasing resilience and humor in the face of impoverishment.

Buissart is now considering exporting the concept elsewhere.

A native francophone, Buissart easily speaks colorful Dutch and, for multilingual groups, a slightly rocky English that added to the safari’s charm. Occasionally, fearing he may have digressed too much, he checked in: “Do you understand?” He learnt English in London, where he worked in the hotel industry. The son of a gendarme and a childcare worker, he had studied butchery-charcuterie, then worked as a welder before switching to studying design.

The future one-man show

After 15 years of activity, Buissart enjoys the recognition he has gained: “When you do a job like this for a long time, a form of respect develops.” He has even inspired others. The French have created a Nord-Pas-de-Calais Adventure based on the same concept. They asked the Belgian for permission to use the name, and he is now considering exporting the concept elsewhere, perhaps by setting up a conference.

Now 44, Buissart views his activity as “a job, a hobby, therapy, and a sport” — he jokes about the weight he gained during the pandemic. He can make a living from it, though his income fluctuates greatly. At the end of the year, his Russian partner is due to give birth to their child. When asked if it will be his first, Buissart replies playfully: “Maybe.”

We certainly do not get bored crossing the Caroloregian wastelands with him. He hopes to put on a one-man show one day. Personally, I would go see him.