August 28, 2015
TREVISO â€" Arsheed Alaa, 29, has a violin and a passport from a country that effectively no longer exists. When he left Syria a few months after the revolt against President Bashar al-Assad, he dreamed of returning home to play and give music lessons to children. Now, he says while smoking a cigarette in the garden of Italy's Fabrica Communication Research Center, he feels like Orpheus trying futilely to rescue his past from the underworld.
Alaa's story is that of a generation of Syrians who, four years ago, had the temerity to imagine themselves as revolutionaries: young, educated, liberal, bourgeois and bold enough to challenge the silence of their parents terrorized by the regime.
But this wasn't enough to survive the crossfire between Damascus and the Islamist madness. Today, Syria is a ghost state, a country buried by a war that has caused at least 250,000 deaths and created more than five million refugees.
"I was born in Suwayda, in the Daraa province, where our short spring began in February 2011," Alaa says during a break at Fabrica, where he has recorded a CD that includes eight songs.
In 2011, he had been running a cafe-gallery called Alpha for five years, a cultural space in which â€" dodging censorship â€" they were able to organize 140 exhibitions and almost 50 events. It seems like a century ago for Alaa. "My friends and I knew what was happening in Egypt and Tunisia," he says. "We thought it was up to us, but we had to be more careful than others. We protested with art. I remember there was one graphic that reworked some of Voltaire's sentences."
But, he says, the regime's thugs were rough. "And those stationed at the gallery didn't understand anything," he says. "But people came, so many of them, and the police called my father to warn him. They arrested him for a while. I was champing at the bit, but on the other hand I was getting warnings like dents on my car. I didn't like that the protests had become increasingly focused around mosques because democracy has nothing to do with faith. So I went to Beirut."
He didn't really want to go, though. "I wanted to free my country, but that summer the energy was too negative," he says. "Shortly after I left, they destroyed the gallery, burning books and paintings, singing hymns to Assad. They're blind barbarians, full of ignorance and hate."
Alaa speaks slowly, listening as if he were playing. But the music, he says, doesn't hurt like the memories do. "In Beirut, I survived. At first I lived in a garage," he recalls. "Today I have three jobs, of which the best is playing at weddings, and I'm able to pay for an apartment that I share with my brother Ayan and my two sisters Maruka and Kinda."
They're all musicians, and they play instead of talking about a Syria that isn't there anymore. "It's less painful," he says. "We would like to form a quartet."
Their parents insisted on staying in Suwayda, Alaa says. "Even now that they are surrounded by the government and by ISIS. In the area there are also the al-Nusra Front and the Free Syrian Army. Sooner or later the war will arrive there, but we are Druze and the local Druze community is starting to distribute weapons to defend itself from both sides. Maybe they will try to cross the border and ally with the Israeli Druze."
Playing for survival
The past is behind him and turning back isn't an option. But the future, he reasons, isn't in Lebanon. "My friends have begun taking the boats to Europe, but I am afraid. They have nothing, but I have music and I dream of fleeing but playing â€¦"
He knows Radu Mihileanu's film The Concert. He knows and loves Tarkovsky, Dostoyevsky and, obviously, Schubert, Chopin and Beethoven.
He would like to stay in Italy, to request refugee status and start from here. "I met Alessandro Gassman in Beirut by accident one day when it was raining," Alaa says. "He was filming a documentary on Syrian refugees for the UN Refugee Agency called Torn and wanted me in the cast. Then Gassman tweeted my name with such great compliments that Fabrica offered me two months of workshops with music composers. Now I'm here, but I don't want to leave, I don't want to pay rent in Beirut. I don't want to be consumed by the hate from my country that is affecting the whole region."
Alaa holds his violin, one of his few possessions along with a hard drive that has photos of his previous life. Knowing what he knows now, he considers whether he still would have challenged Assad. He cries, but straightens up again. "Yes, I would have," he says. "We had the right to try and get away from half a century of slavery, even though the price was our country."
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food / travel
With Halloween arriving, we have dug up the would-be ghosts of documented evil and bloodshed from the past.
Laure Gautherin and Carl-Johan Karlsson
October 26, 2021
When Hallows Eve was first introduced as a Celtic festival some 2,000 years ago, bonfires and costumes were seen as a legitimate way to ward off ghosts and evil spirits. Today of course, with science and logic being real ghostbusters, spine-chilling tales of haunted forests, abandoned asylums and deserted graveyards have rather become a way to add some mystery and suspense to our lives.
And yet there are still spooky places around the world that have something more than legend attached to them. From Spain to Uzbekistan and Australia, these locations prove that haunting lore is sometimes rooted in very real, and often terrible events.
Shahr-e Gholghola, City of Screams - Afghanistan
The ruins of Shahr-e Gholghola, the City of Screams, in Afghanistan
According to locals, ghosts from this ancient royal citadel located in the Valley of Bamyan, 150 miles northwest of Kabul, have been screaming for 800 years. You can hear them from miles away, at twilight, when they relive their massacre.
In the spring 1221, the fortress built by Buddhist Ghorids in the 6th century became the theater of the final battle between Jalal ad-Din Mingburnu, last ruler of the Khwarezmian Empire, and the Mongol Horde led by Genghis Khan. It is said that Khan's beloved grandson, Mutakhan, had been killed on his mission to sack Bamyan. To avenge him, the Mongol leader went himself and ordered to kill every living creature in the city, children included.
The ruins today bear the name of Shahr-e Gholghola, meaning City of Screams or City of Sorrows. The archeological site, rich in Afghan history, is open to the public and though its remaining walls stay quiet during the day, locals say that the night brings the echoes of fear and agony. Others claim the place comes back to life eight centuries ago, and one can hear the bustle of the city and people calling each other.
Gettysburg, Civil War battlefield - U.S.
View of the battlefields from Little Round Top, Gettysburg, PA, USA
Even ghosts non-believers agree there is something eerie about Gettysbury. The city in the state of Pennsylvania is now one of the most popular destinations in the U.S. for spirits and paranormal activities sight-seeing; and many visitors report they witness exactly what they came for: sounds of drums and gunshots, spooky encounters and camera malfunctions in one specific spot… just to name a few!
The Battle of Gettysburg, for which President Abraham Lincoln wrote his best known public address, is considered a turning point in the Civil War that led to the Union's victory. It lasted three days, from July 1st to July 3rd, 1863, but it accounts for the worst casualties of the entire conflict, with 23,000 on the Union side (3,100 men killed) and 28,000 for the Confederates (including 3,900 deaths). Thousands of soldiers were buried on the battlefield in mass graves - without proper rites, legend says - before being relocated to the National Military Park Cemetery for the Unionists.
Since then, legend has it, their restless souls wander, unaware the war has ended. You can find them everywhere, on the battlefield or in the town's preserved Inns and hotels turned into field hospitals back then.
Belchite, Civil War massacre - Spain
Old Belchite, Spain
Shy lost souls wandering and briefly appearing in front of visitors, unexplainable forces attracting some to specific places of the town, recorded noises of planes, gunshots and bombs, like forever echoes of a drama which left an open wound in Spanish history…
That wound, still unhealed, is the Spanish Civil War; and at its height in 1937, Belchite village, located in the Zaragoza Province in the northeast of Spain, represented a strategic objective of the Republican forces to take over the nearby capital city of Zaragoza.
Instead of being a simple step in their operation, it became the field of an intense battle opposing the loyalist army and that of General Francisco Franco's. Between August 24 and September 6, more than 5,000 people were killed, including half of Belchite's population. The town was left in rubble. As a way to illustrate the Republicans' violence, Franco decided to leave the old town in ruins and build a new Belchite nearby. All the survivors were relocated there, but they had to wait 15 years for it to be complete.
If nothing particular happens in new Belchite, home to around 1,500 residents, the remains of old Belchite offer their share of chilling ghost stories. Some visitors say they felt a presence, someone watching them, sudden change of temperatures and strange sounds. The ruins of the old village have been used as a film set for Terry Gilliam's The Adventures of Baron Munchausen - with the crew reporting the apparition of two women dressed in period costumes - and Guillermo del Toro's Pan's Labyrinth. And in October 1986, members of the television program "Cuarta Dimensión" (the 4th dimension) spent a night in Belchite and came back with some spooky recordings of war sounds.
Gur Emir, a conquerer’s mausoleum - Uzbekistan
Gur Emir (Tomb of Timur) in Samarkand, Uzbekistan
The news echoed through the streets and bazaars of Samarkand: "The Russian expedition will open the tomb of Tamerlane the Great. It will be our curse!" It was June 1941, and a small team of Soviet researchers began excavations in the Gur-Emir mausoleum in southeastern Uzbekistan.
The aim was to prove that the remains in the tomb did in fact belong to Tamerlane — the infamous 14th-century conqueror and first ruler of the Timurid dynasty who some historians say massacred 1% of the world's population in 1360.
Still, on June 20, despite protests from local residents and Muslim clergy, Tamerlame's tomb was cracked open — marked with the inscription: "When I Rise From the Dead, The World Shall Tremble."
Only two days later, Nazi Germany invaded the Soviet Union, with the people of Samarkand linking it to the disturbing of Tamerlane's peace. Amid local protests, the excavation was immediately wrapped up and the remains of the Turkish/Mongol conqueror were sent to Moscow. The turning point in the war came with the victory in the Battle of Stalingrad — only a month after a superstitious Stalin ordered the return of Tamerlane's remains to Samarkand where the former emperor was re-buried with full honors.
Gamla Stan, a royal massacre - Sweden
The red house of Gamla Stan, Stockholm, Sweden
After Danish King Kristian II successfully invaded Sweden and was anointed King in November 1520, the new ruler called Swedish leaders to join for festivities at the royal palace in Stockholm. At dusk, after three days of wine, beer and spectacles, Danish soldiers carrying lanterns and torches entered the great hall and imprisoned the gathered nobles who were considered potential opponents of the Danish king. In the days that followed, 92 people were swiftly sentenced to death, and either hanged or beheaded on Stortorget, the main square in Gamla Stan (Old Town).
Until this day, the Stockholm Bloodbath is considered one of the most brutal events in Scandinavian history, and some people have reported visions of blood flowing across the cobblestoned square in early November. A little over a century later, a red house on the square was rebuilt as a monument for the executed — fitted with 92 white stones for each slain man. Legend has it that should one of the stones be removed, the ghost of the represented will rise from the dead and haunt the streets of Stockholm for all eternity.
Port Arthur, gruesome prison - Australia
Port Arthur Prison Settlement, Tasmania, Australia
During its 47-year history as a penal settlement, Port Arthur in southern Tasmania earned a reputation as one of the most notorious prisons in the British Empire. The institution — known for a brutal slavery system and punishment of the most hardened criminals sent from the motherland— claimed the lives of more than 1,000 inmates until its closure in 1877.
Since then, documented stories have spanned the paranormal gamut: poltergeist prisoners terrorizing visitors, weeping children roaming the port and tourists running into a weeping 'lady in blue' (apparently the spirit of a woman who died in childbirth). The museum even has an 'incidence form' ready for anyone wanting to report an otherworldly event.
Poveglia Island, plague victims - Italy
Poveglia Island, Italy
Located off the coast of Venice and Lido, Poveglia sadly reunites all the classical elements of a horror movie: plagues, mass burial ground and mental institute (from the 1920's).
During the bubonic plague and other subsequent pandemics, the island served as a quarantine station for the sick and anyone showing any signs of what could be Black Death contamination. Some 160,000 victims are thought to have died there and the seven acres of land became a mass burial ground so full that it is said that human ash makes up more than 50% of Poveglia's soil.
In 1922 a retirement home for the elderly — used as a clandestine mental institution— opened on the island and with it a fair amount of rumors involving torture of patients. The hospital and consequently the whole island was closed in 1968, leaving all the dead trapped off-land.
Poveglia's terrifying past earned it the nickname of 'Island of Ghosts'. Despite being strictly off-limits to visitors, the site has been attracting paranormal activity hunters looking for the apparition of lost and angry souls. The island would be so evil that some locals say that when an evil person dies, he wakes up in Poveglia, another kind of hell.
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