Edinburgh might be best known for its castle, bagpipe players and comedy festival, but the medieval Old Town and Georgian New Town of the city hide an array of international restaurants, cozy cafés and artisan shops.
There are many options of local and international cuisine to dine and drink around the friendly, historic city, but often they are overcrowded with tourists. Avoid the tourist hotspots and take this local recommendations for where to spend your time in the city.
A freshly baked breakfast at Söderberg
Start your day at Söderberg, a popular Swedish-style café and bakery. With seven spots across Edinburgh (and an additional two in London), you will be able to find one close by no matter where you stay. It serves authentic Swedish food made to classic recipes with high-quality ingredients, and is best known locally for its huge cinnamon buns, which come in a variety of flavours, as well as for its coffee.
Stop for brunch at Hula
Hula Juice Bar has two outposts in Edinburgh, one on the picturesque Victoria Street, a cobblestone alleyway with colorful facades that is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Serving classics such as avocado toast, pancakes and smoothie bowls, Hula Juice Bar is popular among locals and tourists alike. It’s a must if you’re craving a great smoothie, juice or a healthy brunch.
Find a snack at Edinburgh’s favourite market
While Scotland may have a bad reputation for its bright orange Irn-Bru soft drink and deep-fried Mars bars, the country also has a wide range of healthy and organic food. Edinburgh does this particularly well with farmers markets scattered across the city, as well as its cheesemongers (I.J. Mellis is a must visit) and delis (Valvona and Crolla is the best and is also Scotland’s oldest deli).
Head to Stockbridge market on a Sunday to find an assorted variety of fresh produce and international cuisines. Pick up a coffee or tea from the Bearded Barista or Betea to sip while you browse the stalls. Make sure you admire the fresh pasta, try a sample of jam or chutney, then wander over to one of the stalls selling hot food, including paella and Japanese food. You can also pick up bread, cheese, fish and meat for a light dinner or lunch.
A cozy lunch at Fettle
A spot popular with students thanks to its location right next to the University of Edinburgh, Fettle serves delicious, warming soup and huge sandwiches made with freshly baked focaccia.
The staff are friendly and helpful and will help you decide on your sandwich from their wide selection, including vegan and vegetarian options. They also serve a range of salad bowls, baked goods and smoothies. Take a seat in the window to people watch or if you manage to catch a rare moment of sun, enjoy your lunch outside.
Stop for a drink at a Scottish pub
For a drink at a typical Scottish pub, head down to Leith, a port district to the north of Edinburgh. Of the pubs in Leith, Teuchters Landing is a cut above the rest. It serves traditional Scottish food, including haggis and neeps and tatties (rutabagas and potatoes), as well as locally brewed beer and whisky. If you venture through pub’s tightly packed rooms, you can reach a floating pontoon on the port outside, the perfect spot to sit on a sunny day.
If you’re more of the wine and cocktail type, Jackson the Tailor is a speakeasy cocktail bar that isn’t as popular and crowded. They serve a range of interesting and fun cocktails, made by the helpful and friendly staff who will be more than happy to advise you on what cocktail will suit your tastes.
Enjoy dinner at the Wee Greek Kitchen, a local favorite
Edinburgh has no end of delicious options for dinner, and when I was first brainstorming this list I had five that I just couldn’t decide between. Edinburgh is a great place to visit for its array of international foods. While there are good restaurants that serve Scottish classics, the internationality of the city means it also offers brilliant Indian, Italian, Thai and Mediterranean options.
In the end, I’ve picked what I think is one of the best off-the-beaten track restaurants in Edinburgh. Nestled to the south of the city, in a mainly residential area, is the Wee Greek Kitchen. Owned and run by Spiros, who is also an artist, the restaurant is small and cozy with only about 10 tables, making it perfect for an intimate meal.
The food is delicious and includes classics such as prawn saganaki, moussaka and baklava served alongside Greek wine and perfectly made Greek style coffee. The menu is small, but that just means that each dish is perfect. The food is also always served with a smile from a friendly face. The restaurant also hosts events including Greek music nights and art exhibitions.
Must-try activity
Edinburgh, and Scotland, is well known for its whisky. There are whisky tours and tasting sessions scattered across the city. Some better than others, but if you head down to Leith, you’ll find the Port of Leith Distillery. The UK’s first vertical whisky distillery, it has only been open since October 2023 and occupies a spot right by the sea.
With an aim to make whisky more accessible, it provides 90 minute long tours for just £26 which cover the history of the company, how whisky is made and even include a tasting. If you need more whisky after your tour, the top floor of the striking nine-story building hosts a bar which serves up an array of whisky, cocktails and small plates, all with the backdrop of a panoramic view of the city and sea.
