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CLARIN

How Wildlife Survives Along A Toxic Argentine River

As officials plan a cleanup of the foul Matanza-Riachuelo River Basin, in Buenos Aires scientists are awed by the handful of creatures that manage to survive there.

The Matanza River is the most contaminated river in Argentina
The Matanza River is the most contaminated river in Argentina
Gretel Gaffoglio

BUENOS AIRES — The hyper-polluted Matanza-Riachuelo River Basin in Argentina has the dubious distinction alongside the likes ofChernobyl of being one of the world's 10most toxic sites.

And yet somehow, someway, certain animals manage to survive in this "wetland," where decomposition of organic matter through microorganisms sucks up the water's oxygen. Wildlife observed in the basin include carnivorous turtles, coypus (river rats), herons and other native birds.

The area absorbs the untreated sewage of some 6 million Buenos Aires residents, many living in ramshackle housing without sewerage, as well as factory chemicals. How is it, then, that some creatures remain? Good question, say scientists, who aren't yet clear if the surviving rodents and reptiles are "clinging to life" or evolving to deal with their toxic reality.

For insight, Gabriel Ciacobone, a zoologist working with the city government, is studying the area's turtles. "Tortoises are living fossils, animals that have tolerated everything, from radiation to pollutants," he says. They also breathe air, which is important, since there is little to no oxygen left in the river and surrounding wetlands.

Measurements by municipal researchers have shown the waters to have between 0 and 1 mg of oxygen per liter. Fish generally need twice as much to live, and a healthy river should have between 5 and 7 mg oxygen/liter. There are no fish, therefore, in the Matanza-Riachuelo, meaning that for sustenance, tortoises must snap up other delicacies, like birds.

The Buenos Aires city government is planning a cleanup of the area that is expected to cost millions of dollars and take decades to complete. In the meantime, municipal boats monitor the waters, where recreational navigation is banned.

In the most polluted part of the wetlands, the enclosed Cildáñez stream, government scientists are testing the stomach contents of some of the big tortoises. No doubt there are clues to be gleaned from dissecting their diets. But there's still the question how the reptiles can actually live in the toxic sludge. Or how they can stand to drink it!

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LGBTQ Plus

My Wife, My Boyfriend — And Grandkids: A Careful Coming Out For China's Gay Seniors

A series of interviews in Wuhan with aging gay men — all currently or formerly married to women — reveals a hidden story of how Chinese LGBTQ culture is gradually emerging from the shadows.

Image of two senior men playing chinese Checkers.

A friendly game of Checkers in Dongcheng, Beijing, China.

Wang Er

WUHAN — " What do you think of that guy sitting there, across from us? He's good looking."

" Then you should go and talk to him."

“ Too bad that I am old..."

Grandpa Shen was born in 1933. He says that for the past 40 years, he's been "repackaged," a Chinese expression for having come out as gay. Before his wife died when he was 50, Grandpa Shen says he was was a "standard" straight Chinese man. After serving in the army, he began working in a factory, and dated many women and evenutually got married.

"Becoming gay is nothing special, I found it very natural." Grandpa Shen says he discovered his homosexuality at the Martyrs' Square in Wuhan, a well-known gay men's gathering place.

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Wuhan used to have different such ways for LGBTQ+ to meet: newspaper columns, riversides, public toilets, bridges and baths to name but a few. With urbanization, many of these locations have disappeared. The transformation of Martyrs' Square into a park has gradually become a place frequented by middle-aged and older gay people in Wuhan, where they play cards and chat and make friends. There are also "comrades" (Chinese slang for gay) from outside the city who come to visit.

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