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food / travel

Superstar Chef Ferran Adria Shares His Secret Ingredient

An Argentine newspaper asks if the founder of the now-closed, ultra-famous El Bulli restaurant in Catalonia is the Lionel Messi of the culinary world. Ferran Adria sees it differently.

Spanish chef Ferran Adria
Spanish chef Ferran Adria
Susana Reinosa

BUENOS AIRES — His work may have earned him a revered place in the here and now, but his thoughts are often of the future. "A modern country needs investigative cooking," says Ferran Adrià, founder of the world-famous El Bulli restaurant and pride of his native Catalonia.

Using food as a fulcrum, the 53-year-old chef managed in just a few years to bring about an anthropological and cultural transformation. He earned three Michelin stars in the process and knocked France off the culinary throne it had occupied for more than a century. Then, in July 2011, he shut down El Bulli.

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