ISTANBUL — Three Spanish friends visited me earlier this year, and I prepared a guide for them to enjoy Istanbul properly. Now I want to share my notes about this magical city, where old meets new and East meets West.
The food culture alone is an enthusiastic meeting of cuisines from the ancient spice bazaars to the modern restaurants along the Bosphorus Strait. Here are some unforgettable experiences to enjoy the spirit of this multi-faceted city.
Visit the best historic bathhouses
An authentic Turkish bathhouse (hammam) experience is as essential for foreigners as visiting the museums and palaces of Istanbul. The Hürrem Sultan Hammam, Cağaloğlu Hammam, Ağa Hammam, Çemberlitaş Hammam, Galatasaray Hammam, Kılıç Ali Paşa Hammam and Süleymaniye Hammam are the best historical bathhouses that have been fully restored. You’d need reservations for all of them.
The historic hotels, such as the Six Senses Kocatas Mansions, Four Seasons Hotel Sultanahmet and Çırağan Kempinski, offer hammam and spa rituals.
Dusk and dawn ferry rides
Istanbul starts the day in a silvery color; the sunshine dances on the Bosphorus. The setting sun paints the sea gold and the sky fiery reds.
One of the best things to do in Istanbul is to watch this scene on the water, and you can use the public ferries to do so. One of the best routes is the long Bosphorus tour. The ferry leaves from the Eminönü Pier every morning, stopping at the piers of Beşiktaş, Üsküdar, Kanlıca, Sarıyer, Rumeli Kavağı and finally Anadolu Kavağı, before making a return trip in the afternoon. You can check all of the ferry routes here.
Visit the historical mosques of Istanbul
Even my Spanish friends, who are not generally fond of visiting religious sites, were amazed at the great mosques of Istanbul. The biggest historical mosques are the multi-domed Sultan Ahmed Mosque, known as the Blue Mosque due to the blue tiles that decorate it, and the beautifully lit Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque, which has heavenly light flowing out its windows.
Several other mosques are also fascinating for their beauty and craftsmanship: Süleymaniye, Fatih, Yeni Camii, Nuru Osmaniye, Yıldız Hamidiye, Büyük Selimiye, Pertevniyal Valide Sultan, Dolmabahçe, Eyüpsultan, Ortaköy, Şehzade and Mihrimah Sultan.
Discover the historical neighborhoods
My five favorite historical neighborhoods of Istanbul are Sirkeci, Balat, Galata, Kuzguncuk and Samatya. Stepping into these neighborhoods is taking a step back in time to old Istanbul.
On the European side of Istanbul, Şişli-Feriköy-Kurtuluş, Pera, Çukurcuma, Rumelihisarı and Kandilli are filled with old Istanbul houses. On the Asian side, the neighborhoods of Caferağa, Moda and Yeldeğirmeni are full of gastronomy and art.
Wander in the bazaars
If shopping can be classified as a cultural experience, Istanbul’s bazaars are the place to do it. The Egyptian Bazaar, or the Spice Bazaar, has the sourish aromas of the shiny spices, weeds, teas and sweets.
The Grand Bazaar is like Ali Baba’s cave; in its more than 3,600 shops, you’ll find not only lamps but jewelry, silver, gold, stained glass chandeliers, carpets of all colors and handmade ceramics.
That’s it? Of course not! The bazaars of Beşiktaş and Kadıköy; the Arasta Bazaar in Sultanahmet; the historical fish market and the old book bazaar in Beyazıt, the Feriköy Antique Market in Şişli and the Beşiktaş fish market are absolutely worthy of discovery. My favorite is the Kastamonu Bazaar in Kasımpaşa.
Cycle the Prince Islands
On a sunny day, one of the greatest activities for visitors is to hop on a ferry in Kabataş and go to the Prince Islands, a cluster of nine islands southeast of the city in the Sea of Marmara.
These islands are mainly car-free, so discover Kınalıada, Heybeliada, Burgazada and the amazing Büyükada on rented bicycles. Stay at the striking white and red Splendid Palace Hotel, or at least try the fantastic sweets at its pastry shop and watch the glorious sunset while tasting mezzes at the Eskibağ Restaurant.
Visit the palaces of Istanbul
Among the palaces and pavilions, known for their architecture, peaceful atmospheres and beautiful gardens, I would recommend Topkapı Palace, Dolmabahçe Palace, Yıldız Palace, Beylerbeyi Palace, Hıdiv Pavilion and Ihlamur Pavilion, which have special collections are on display. Tekfur Palace (Edirnekapı), Maslak Pavilion (Sarıyer), Aynalıkavak Pavilion (Hasköy), Küçüksu Pavilion (Beykoz) and Mecidiye Pavilion (Beykoz) are other locations to wonder at.
A city of museums
Istanbul’s art scene has had several significant recent developments, including the successful restoration of the Istanbul Archaeological Museums, Istanbul Modern moving to its new building, opening of the Is Bank Museum of Painting and Sculpture, the magnificent restoration of the Yerebatan Cistern and the “Suppose You Are Not” exhibition.
My favorite to visit both by myself and alongside my guests are the Hagia Sophia History & Experience Museum, Sakıp Sabancı Museum, Pera Museum, Rahmi M. Koç Museum, Istanbul Toy Museum, Istanbul Museum of Painting and Sculpture, Naval Museum, Great Palace Mosaics Museum, Panorama 1453 History Museum, Ural Ataman Classic Car Museum, National Palaces Painting Museum, Galata Mevlevi House Museum, Salt Galata and Sadberk Hanım Museum.
Keep in mind that Istanbul has many impressive art galleries; Pilevneli, Art On and Anna Laudel are worthwhile stops.