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food / travel

Journey Through The Myriad Contradictions Of Modern Tehran

An Argentine writer unfurls his summer diary from a sweltering visit to the Iranian capital.

Woman walking in a busy Tehran street
Woman walking in a busy Tehran street
Matías Capelli

TEHRAN — The biggest danger in Tehran is "crossing the street," says my Iranian friend Nozhan, who lived in Europe 12 years before returning in 2013 to the megalopolis that is Iran's capital.

He knows that as a Westerner, I am unnerved by a range of threats I have come to associate with the Islamic Republic. Now that I'm here, I realize most of those ideas are unfounded. Nozhan's advice, on the other hand, proves to be quite sound. "Avoid the zebra crossing in particular," he advises, because cars "accelerate instead of slowing down" when they see pedestrians using them.

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Geopolitics

Venezuela-Iran: Maduro And The Axios Of Chaos In The Americas

With the complicity of leftist rulers in Venezuela, Bolivia and even Argentina, Iran's sanction-ridden regime is spreading its tentacles in South America, and could even undermine democracies.

Venezuelan President Nicolás Maduro visiting Iranian President Ebrahim Raisi in Tehran, Iran on June 11. Venezuela is one of Iran's closest allies, and both are subject to tough U.S. sanctions.

Julio Borges

-Analysis-

CARACAS —The dangers posed by Venezuela's relations with the Islamic Republic of Iran is something we've warned about before. Though not new, the dangers have changed considerably in recent years.

They began under Venezuela's late leader, Hugo Chávez , when he decided to turn his back on the West and move closer to countries outside our geopolitical sphere. In 2005, Chávez and Iran's then president, Mahmoud Ahmadinejad, signed collaborative agreements in areas beyond the economy, with goals that included challenging the West and spreading Iran's presence in Latin America.

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