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food / travel

From Zurich To Tokyo, Chocoholics Now Have Bonafide "Bars" To Get Cocoa Fix In Style

Some of the world's trendiest new "bars" don't serve beer, whiskey or wine. What they do offer is chocolate, and lots of it. From Paris to Tokyo, chocolate bars are attracting all ages eager to indulge their cocoa cravings and fe

Chocolate bars don't always fit in your hand (Or Hiltch)
Chocolate bars don't always fit in your hand (Or Hiltch)
Véronique Zbinden

GENEVA - Should you use sparkling water? A blender? A whip, or maybe just a flick of the wrist? What really is the best way to foam hot chocolate? Pierre Hermé, the god of chocovores, lists no fewer than 18 different options in his dictionary of chocolate. David Silveria, bartender at Beau-Rivage in Geneva, serves only three versions: 70% dark, tonka bean, and ginger. In any case, one thing is clear: This sweet brown nectar, known since the time of the Olmecs, is experiencing a comeback in chocolate bars around the world.

In Geneva, the bar at the Beau-Rivage hotel becomes a family zone every Sunday afternoon, driving out businessmen in favor of youngsters armed with skewers of marshmallows, ready to meet the irresistible call of chocolate fountains. The marble and zinc palace disappears under towers of black forest cakes, tiramisu, chocolate-hazelnut millefeuilles, tarts, macaroons, exotic fruit skewers, and ladyfingers all waiting to be dipped into a creamy vat of cocoa.

"We wanted to differentiate ourselves from the other major hotels, most of which offer traditional English tea," said Israel Benyair, director of catering. "I tested this concept successfully in Boston. Our customers were 95% women. They were happy to entrust us with their children for an afternoon of competitions and blind tasting. The clientele of the Beau-Rivage is family oriented, but the success is the same."

The Beau-Rivage is conducting this experiment for its second winter, but it was preceded by a few other pioneers. In Fribourg, Villars opened a Swiss Chocolate Café in 2003 on the site of the old Chocolate Factory. That same year, the chic Parisian chocolatier Jean-Paul Hévin set up shop in Japan. Soon thereafter, Lindt opened its first Chocolate Bar in Sydney, followed by three other stores in Australia and two in Tokyo. Most recently, the company designed a chocolate bar for its new shop in the Zurich airport. Meanwhile, Pierre Hermé has gained a foothold at the Stade de France with the support of a Belgian sponsor. The chocolate competition has spread everywhere.

Flocking to chocolate

So who started it? "The idea is very fashionable at the moment," says Alexandre Sacerdoti, director of Villars chocolates. "The Japanese have long devoted street corners to the tasting of namachuko, a type of chocolate ganache, and in the United States, the chain Max Brenner has made drinking chocolate a trademark."

Artisans and entrepreneurs have been flocking to chocolate in recent years, as can be seen around Paris and other capital cities. Some offer workshops, demonstrations and tastings, and even allow customers to assist in production. Others offer initiatory experiences: Discover great wines paired with foie gras and melted chocolate ...

For Lindt, this approach has enabled the company "to be known in new markets and position itself successfully as a high-end brand," notes spokeswoman Nina Keller. Its four Australian shops attracted 1.4 million customers last year.

For Max Brenner chocolate, there is also the whole process of making chocolate. The company demonstrates a commitment to transparency and staging that seems at the heart of the 21st century culinary experience. At Max Brenner's, chocolate is a part of a ceremony, in order to make the drink "cozy, full of warmth and fragrance." Same goes for Lindt, which offers "experience and a way to invite travelers into our universe."

"So much time and energy has been spent studying candies and chocolate bars," says Lise Luka, creator of the Geneva Salon of Chocolate. "But much less time has been devoted to drinking chocolate, which offers a return to the craft, old traditions, and childhood connections."

It's a true homecoming, because chocolate was, in fact, known only in its liquid form until the 1850s. "The drink always maintained a therapeutic and aphrodisiac aspect, but the chocolate was very bitter," says historian François de Capitani. "Chocolate's great popularity as a beverage is related to the democratization of sugar. The addition of milk, cinnamon and other flavors was a great triumph for children, women and the sick."

Still, two opposing schools are now emerging on the hot cocoa front. There are the purists, such as Patrick Carvalho, who exclaim "No way one should add milk, what heresy!" On the other side are people who crave a taste of nostalgia and childhood. For them it's sugar and milk, maybe even cream.

Read more fromLe Temps in French

Photo - Or Hiltch

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FOCUS: Russia-Ukraine War

Searching For Marianna, A Pregnant Doctor From Mariupol Held Captive By The Russians

We’ve heard about the plight of the soldiers-turned-prisoners from Mariupol. Here are some traces of the disturbing fate of a young female doctor who’s been taken away.

A paper dove reads "Mariupol" at a shelter for displaced children in Uzhhorod, western Ukraine.

Paweł Smoleński

"Wait for me, because I will return…"

Marianna Mamonova wrote these words to her family, among the text messages and short phone calls that are the only remaining fragments used to piece together her recent past. We also have a photo of her, posted on Russian websites, where she looks into the lens, gaunt and exhausted, signed with a number like a concentration camp prisoner.

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Until the Russian-Ukrainian war, Mamonova’s biography was available to anyone who wanted to know. She was born in 1991, studied at the Ternopil Medical University, and later at the Kyiv Military Academy. After completing her studies, she was sent to work in the coastal city of Berdiansk. Her mother says that this is where her daughter's dream came true: She’d always wanted to be a military doctor, and worked in Berdiansk for three years, receiving the rank of officer in the Ukrainian army.

Beginning in 2014, she’d worked stints as a front-line doctor in the Donbas region, and when Russia invaded Ukraine in February she went to war again. This time in Mariupol.

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