When the world gets closer.

We help you see farther.

Sign up to our expressly international daily newsletter.

Already a subscriber? Log in .

You've reached your limit of one free article.

Get unlimited access to Worldcrunch

You can cancel anytime .


Exclusive International news coverage

Ad-free experience NEW

Weekly digital Magazine NEW

9 daily & weekly Newsletters

Access to Worldcrunch archives

Free trial

30-days free access, then $2.90
per month.

Annual Access BEST VALUE

$19.90 per year, save $14.90 compared to monthly billing.save $14.90.

Subscribe to Worldcrunch
food / travel

Krakow's Bottiglieria 1881 Becomes First Polish Restaurant To Earn Two Michelin Stars

The restaurant, created with Krakow locals in mind, is pushing Polish gastronomy on the international haute cuisine map.

A chef plates a dish at Bottiglieria 1881.

Three years ago, Bottiglieria 1881 was one of just a handful of Polish eateries to gain a Michelin star. Now, it is the first to earn its second.

Bottiglieria 1881 via Facebook
Angelika Pitoń

KRAKOW — Bottiglieria 1881, tucked in an unassuming spot near Bocheńska Street in Kraków, has earned its second Michelin star. It is a historic recognition for Polish gastronomy: the restaurant is the first in Poland to have achieved this honor.

“All of our seats are reserved a month in advance, but the food we serve is not for a select few, but for anyone who wants to embark on a culinary adventure”, Przemysław Klima, the head chef and co-owner of Bottiglieria 1181, told Gazeta Wyborcza when the restaurant received its first Michelin star in 2020, just 10 months after he took over. “We serve some guests as often as once a week, and others come once every six months. There are no hard or fast rules, but under no circumstances is our restaurant only for special occasions. Every day is an occasion to eat something special.”

Three years ago, Bottiglieria 1881 reached the Olympus of Polish restaurants recognized in the Michelin Guide. Before Bottiglieria, only two Polish restaurants, both of them in Warsaw, had been awarded a star: Atelier Amaro, and Senses. Today, Przemysław Klima’s gastronomical team is forging new paths and can boast its status as the first restaurant in Poland to achieve something even higher.

The 2023 edition of the Michelin guide included a record 49 Polish restaurants — 22 of them which had not been included before. Of these, 18 are found in Kraków, and one of them, in the southern village of Kościelisko.

Point of pride

“Botti”, as the restaurant’s faithful patrons call it, is not the only bragging point of Kraków’s culinary scene. MOLAM - a Thai restaurant near Dolne Młyny has been included on the Bib Gourmand list as one of six places in Poland newly noticed by the publishers of the Michelin guide.

Other spots that made the list include Fromażeria i Tu in Poznań, as well as Koneser Grill, Le Braci, Kieliszki na Próżnej, and alewino in Warsaw. We recommend two other top restaurants for patrons looking to explore the country’s culinary scene: Nuta Restaurant in Warsaw, and MUGA in Poznań, each of which has received its own Michelin star.

Two chefs preparing the restaurant's tasting menu.

The menu "Botti” offers is short and carefully curated. Today, there are only two available tasting menus - the full experience (PLN 590, 132 euro) and the familiarization costing PLN 40 (9 euro) less.

Bottiglieria 1881 via Facebook

What’s the hype? 

Wojciech Nowicki, who visited the restaurant after it received the honor, noted the beauty of the presentation. "The precision of preparation and decoration is extraordinary, from the first appetizer, tartlets with eel, radish and herbs, cookies with an extremely delicate and green mousse-cream, after which the eel taste stays in the mouth for a long time. something beautiful," he said.

There are two tasting menus.

There is also the local bread served warm and light, butter with smoked salt, or Mangalica lard with paprika. "Tt's a shame to admit, we threw ourselves on lard without restraint," Nowicki quipped. "It's the taste of Hungarian sausage with a fluffy lightness."

The menu “Botti” offers is short and carefully curated. Today, there are only two available tasting menus - the full experience (PLN 590, 132 euro) and somewhat lighter costing PLN 40 (9 euros) less. In both cases, guests are served black pudding, cherries and tomatoes, bread with fresh country butter, beef and caviar, dumplings, fish with peas, venison, white poppy seeds, sorrel and a dish enigmatically called "childhood memory".

The full tasting menu is extended with smoked fish, called "gold of the forest" and candies. The dishes can be accompanied by a basic selection of wines (up to PLN 390, or 87 euro) or a prestigious version, for which you have to pay less than PLN 600 (about 130 euro).

You've reached your limit of free articles.

To read the full story, start your free trial today.

Get unlimited access. Cancel anytime.

Exclusive coverage from the world's top sources, in English for the first time.

Insights from the widest range of perspectives, languages and countries.


The Unsustainable Future Of Fish Farming — On Vivid Display In Turkish Waters

Currently, 60% of Turkey's fish currently comes from cultivation, also known as fish farming, compared to just 10% two decades ago. The short-sightedness of this shift risks eliminating fishing output from both the farms and the open seas along Turkey's 5,200 miles of coastline.

Photograph of two fishermen throwing a net into the Tigris river in Turkey.

Traditional fishermen on the Tigris river, Turkey.

Dûrzan Cîrano/Wikimeidia
İrfan Donat

ISTANBUL — Turkey's annual fish production includes 515,000 tons from cultivation and 335,000 tons came from fishing in open waters. In other words, 60% of Turkey's fish currently comes from cultivation, also known as fish farming.

It's a radical shift from just 20 years ago when some 600,000 tons, or 90% of the total output, came from fishing. Now, researchers are warning the current system dominated by fish farming is ultimately unsustainable in the country with 8,333 kilometers (5,177 miles) long.

Professor Mustafa Sarı from the Maritime Studies Faculty of Bandırma 17 Eylül University believes urgent action is needed: “Why were we getting 600,000 tons of fish from the seas in the 2000’s and only 300,000 now? Where did the other 300,000 tons of fish go?”

Professor Sarı is challenging the argument from certain sectors of the industry that cultivation is the more sustainable approach. “Now we are feeding the fish that we cultivate at the farms with the fish that we catch from nature," he explained. "The fish types that we cultivate at the farms are sea bass, sea bram, trout and salmon, which are fed with artificial feed produced at fish-feed factories. All of these fish-feeds must have a significant amount of fish flour and fish oil in them.”

That fish flour and fish oil inevitably must come from the sea. "We have to get them from natural sources. We need to catch 5.7 kilogram of fish from the seas in order to cultivate a sea bream of 1 kg," Sarı said. "Therefore, we are feeding the fish to the fish. We cannot cultivate fish at the farms if the fish in nature becomes extinct. The natural fish need to be protected. The consequences would be severe if the current policy is continued.”

Keep reading...Show less

The latest