Chanel, Vinted, Yen: Why Japan Is Driving The Secondhand Luxury Craze

-Analysis-

TOKYO — “Fashion changes. Style endures,” said Coco Chanel. And in Japan, style is making a bold statement. Carefully preserved iconic watches and bags adorn the windows of Tokyo’s upscale neighborhoods. With 36.8 million visitors in 2024, the Japanese archipelago has regained its appeal — and is attracting many fashion enthusiasts looking for that rare gem.

This enthusiasm is marked by the rise of the secondhand luxury market. Giants like LVMH have been recording annual growth of 20% to 30% in the archipelago for several years. “It’s a very interesting country,” says Anne Bouyssou, 48, a former buyer for major fashion houses who two years ago co-founded the first French company selling secondhand luxury items sourced exclusively from Japan. 

This opinion is shared by May Berthelot, 34, a lawyer specializing in digital and intellectual property law, who believes Japan is “a pioneering country in the secondhand sector.” But what’s its secret?

A ripe market

In Japan, the preservation of objects is almost an art. From watches to bags and clothing,  each piece is treated with meticulous attention, perceived as a heirloom in its own right, worthy of respect and care. It’s not simply a matter of maintenance but a tribute to the history the object carries within it. Here, secondhand luxury is deeply rooted, long before this trend spread to the West. 

For May Berthelot, who’s also an influencer specializing in designer pieces, the secondhand market is completely different from ours and “much more integrated in the country’s customs.”

This cultural anchoring is supported by a system of rigorous controls. Japanese legislation, which is particularly strict when it comes to counterfeits, eliminates almost all copies. “Finding counterfeits is a new thing,” says Anne Bouyssou. 

For her part, May Berthelot, who led the fight against counterfeiting at Vinted, admits to having “had doubts about superfakes [editor’s note: perfectly reproduced counterfeit items] in one or two stores in Tokyo.” This case remains rare, however. This level of rigor contributes to making Japan a major player on a global scale. The market could reach a turnover of $27 billion by 2030, according to the consulting firm EY.

Shops as destinations

The leading Japanese secondhand stores include Brand Off, Ragtag, Komehyo, Daikokuya, Amore Vintage and Book Off Super Bazaar. Some are better known than others, such as Amore Vintage in Shibuya, which attracts a diverse clientele, from tourists to celebrities like Jennifer Lopez. As soon as you step into one of the group’s stores, it’s impossible not to be captivated by the neon lights, the candy-pink decor and the decidedly girly, almost hypnotic atmosphere.

These places are visited by tourists like shopping temples. They offer a unique experience, an immersion in the heritage of Japanese style. Who better than a curious traveler to appreciate this perfect blend of fashion, culture, and quality? Proof of this is that the Komehyo boutique recorded a 34.5% increase in its fashion sales during the 2024 quarter, report our colleagues at The Business of Fashion. Some do not hesitate to travel thousands of kilometers to lay their eyes on these luxury pieces, bonafide treasures of know-how.

In the Land of the Rising Sun, luxury items are often more affordable than in Europe, thanks to factors including but not limited to the depreciation of the yen and tax exemptions. Here, the smallest flaw can influence resale prices, enough to make bargain hunters salivate. 

Among them are Anne Bouyssou and her daughter Lisa, who launched their online store. “I’ve bought several thousand bags,” says the 50-year-old, who spends six months a year in Japan. “It’s a bit like an escape room.” Among all these treasures, only one piece has found a place in her closet: a Chanel Paris-London bag from the 2008 collection, in leather and suede calfskin, adorned with a Union Jack flag, purchased for $556 at the retailer Brand Off. And for her wardrobe? “I buy 90% of my clothes secondhand in the archipelago,” Bouyssou says.

Experts, items in excellent condition, certificates of authenticity… “It’s a real guarantee of security.” But sometimes, in this ocean of precious objects, it can be difficult to sort through them. “The good deals are found outside Tokyo,” explains the fifty-year-old. Rather than heading to the capital’s best-known boutiques, it’s better to look to cities like Nagoya, where the offerings are more competitive.

On her social media, May Berthelot recommends “defining in advance the pieces you want to acquire” and “establishing a budget based on the average prices in your own country.” For example, a model like the Chanel Timeless Medium can sell secondhand for around €$3,988 in Japan, while in Europe, its price is closer to $5,127 And the key is patience. “You still have to look hard,” says the young woman — a warning best kept in mind when embarking on this treasure hunt.

Environmentally responsible… and chic

Is the secondhand market establishing itself as a new standard for consuming differently? Rather than buying new, some now prefer to invest in used pieces, which have a much lighter environmental impact. This shift is particularly marked among the younger Japanese and Korean generations, who combine a taste for style with ethical commitment. In societies where fashion remains a social marker, acquiring vintage luxury allows one to combine prestige and responsibility.

On the other hand, while you are allowed to buy such products, you should be aware of customs regulations when returning to France. To avoid fines, it is crucial to follow the rules to the letter. According to French customs, “you must only declare your goods if you exceed a certain value of the purchased products.” This allowance is set at “€430 by plane or boat.” 

Beyond this amount, VAT and customs duties apply. So keep your receipts, because shopping on the other side of the world has its own rules. It’s up to you to play it smart to ensure that the fun continues!