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food / travel

Forty Years Later, 2022 Is Set To Be Another Bordeaux Vintage For The Ages

Forty years since 1982, a mythical vintage of outstanding quality, the 2022 vintage, promises to be the new model for Bordeaux wine-growers after its first taste test, says French daily Les Echos.

Image of two men harvesting grapes in a vineyard.

Men harvesting grapes in a vineyard.

Jean-Michel Brouard, Jean-Francis Pécresse

BORDEAUX — If the year 2022 was a great vintage for Bordeaux, could it be the best since 1982? In spite of a warming climate, vineyards in the region have been resilient. This year’s wines present an excellent balance between concentration and freshness.

Still, the year was not all smooth sailing for winegrowers, who were plagued by spring frosts, hailstorms and droughts that lasted all throughout the growing season. This was paired with abundant sunshine and particularly high temperatures. The vines were confronted with three major heat waves, which began in mid-June, and allowed them to adapt and show persistence in the face of the year's other extreme weather events.

The approach of the harvest — one of the earliest ever observed — brought calmer conditions, making it possible to obtain optimal maturities. But the harvested grapes were small and concentrated, explaining the below-average volumes (4.11 million hectoliters) winegrowers have been reaping for the third consecutive year.

Power and delicacy ​

The successes were brought about by Bordeaux's calcareous soils, which allowed the plants to avoid succumbing to water stress. Soil work, now more widely implemented in the vineyard, has also been decisive in maintaining the balance of the grapes. The richness of the juice and the intensity of their color is the force behind a delicate infusion of grapes in the wine. Ultimately, the year's Bordeaux reds possess a depth and smoothness that proves to be particularly digestible and fresh. Thanks to their acidity levels, the whites combine a concentrated flavor with palpable tension.

Image of \u200bpeople harvesting grapes in a vineyard in the French Bordeaux region.

People harvesting grapes in a vineyard in the French Bordeaux region.

Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux

In short, the iDealWine rating: 

Marquis D’Angerville. Meticulous work in the vineyards is one of the keys to the success of the Marquis d'Angerville estate, whose reputation is long-established, driven by the vision of Jacques d'Angerville (the father of the current owner). The vines are carefully selected, the yields reduced and microbial life favored. It's not surprising to see its wines shine at auction, like the Volnay Premier Cru Clos des Ducs — the estate's monopoly — a 2018 magnum of which fetched €397 on iDealwine.com in February.

Cuvée Nicolas François 2008, champagne Billecart-Salmon. A testament to the time it took, the new opus of this top-of-the-range cuvée was revealed after more than twelve years of aging in the cellar. Coming mainly from the most famous great vintages, this racy blend of pinot noir (60%) and chardonnay (40%) dosed at 2.9 g/l reveals great complexity, depth and rigidity. Citrus fruits, figs, almonds, white flowers and light toasted hints from a share of barrel aging (17%) make up a marvelous bouquet. A wine of incredible youth which promises a long life. Price: €170.

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The Unsustainable Future Of Fish Farming — On Vivid Display In Turkish Waters

Currently, 60% of Turkey's fish currently comes from cultivation, also known as fish farming, compared to just 10% two decades ago. The short-sightedness of this shift risks eliminating fishing output from both the farms and the open seas along Turkey's 5,200 miles of coastline.

Photograph of two fishermen throwing a net into the Tigris river in Turkey.

Traditional fishermen on the Tigris river, Turkey.

Dûrzan Cîrano/Wikimeidia
İrfan Donat

ISTANBUL — Turkey's annual fish production includes 515,000 tons from cultivation and 335,000 tons came from fishing in open waters. In other words, 60% of Turkey's fish currently comes from cultivation, also known as fish farming.

It's a radical shift from just 20 years ago when some 600,000 tons, or 90% of the total output, came from fishing. Now, researchers are warning the current system dominated by fish farming is ultimately unsustainable in the country with 8,333 kilometers (5,177 miles) long.

Professor Mustafa Sarı from the Maritime Studies Faculty of Bandırma 17 Eylül University believes urgent action is needed: “Why were we getting 600,000 tons of fish from the seas in the 2000’s and only 300,000 now? Where did the other 300,000 tons of fish go?”

Professor Sarı is challenging the argument from certain sectors of the industry that cultivation is the more sustainable approach. “Now we are feeding the fish that we cultivate at the farms with the fish that we catch from nature," he explained. "The fish types that we cultivate at the farms are sea bass, sea bram, trout and salmon, which are fed with artificial feed produced at fish-feed factories. All of these fish-feeds must have a significant amount of fish flour and fish oil in them.”

That fish flour and fish oil inevitably must come from the sea. "We have to get them from natural sources. We need to catch 5.7 kilogram of fish from the seas in order to cultivate a sea bream of 1 kg," Sarı said. "Therefore, we are feeding the fish to the fish. We cannot cultivate fish at the farms if the fish in nature becomes extinct. The natural fish need to be protected. The consequences would be severe if the current policy is continued.”

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