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food / travel

Gùsto! How · What · Where Locals Eat (And Drink) In Montreal

image of a building with colourful graffiti on it

Montreal, Canada.

The food and drink scene in Montreal is just as vibrant and diverse as the city itself. It's a delightful fusion of French and North American influences, resulting in a unique gastronomic experience that draws food enthusiasts from far and wide. From fresh bagels to more hearty meals — to be expected in a city where the average annual temperature stands at a modest 7.1 °C (44.8 °F) — you will find plenty to discover, be it across a plethora of restaurants or sampling local specialties in Montreal's thriving food markets.

But if you're planning on making your Canadian culinary journey a francophone one, be aware: In a twist that often confuses visitors from France, meals have different names in Québécois French. Lunchtime is "dîner’"(not "déjeuner," as in France), while dinner time is "souper" (not "dîner"). And snack-time is "collation" instead of "goûter." You'll thank us later!


Dîner — Bagel etc

No matter where you land in the great Montreal bagel debate, there's nothing quite like digging a warm, fresh bagel out of a brown paper bag from either of the city's top bagel shops, Fairmount or St-Viateur. Features of Montreal bagels that haven't changed for over a century: dense dough, hand-made into rings, dipped into honeyed water and baked in a wood-fired oven.

One place that stands out as a must-go for foodies and brunch enthusiasts alike: Bagel etc. Nestled in the heart of the city, St-Laurent Boulevard, this unique brunch and breakfast spot — a regular stop for Montreal music legend Leonard Cohen, who lived nearby — offers a feast for the senses, combining Montreal's iconic bagels with a creative and diverse menu. From the moment you step through its doors, Bagel etc captivates you with its charming ambiance, friendly staff, and, of course, array of brunch delights.

Montreal-style bagels are renowned for their distinct qualities: smaller, denser, sweeter and baked in a wood-fired oven, resulting in a crispy exterior and a chewy center. Bagel etc takes great pride in its authentic bagels, handcrafted with love and attention to detail. Whether you prefer classic flavors like sesame or poppy seed or adventurous combinations like cinnamon raisin or everything bagels, Bagel etc has a variety of options to satisfy every bagel lover's cravings.

Collation — Osmo X Marusan

Against a background of live DJs playing hard-to-find funk records in a minimalist green space, McGill students and the fashionable downtown scene enjoy steaming bowls of Katsu Curry, velvety lattes, colorful teas and perfectly Instagramable egg sandos.

Its surprising interior space — reminiscent of the Brutalist architectural style — and the oasis of greenery of its hidden terrace are a lovely secret to discover in a relatively corporate district of Montreal. Osmo x Marusan is a cafe, but it's also a social club that seeks to encourage creativity. Many events and pop-up offers are held here on Fridays and Saturdays.

A recommendation: don’t miss out on the matcha and white chocolate chip cookies, or their lovely blue-colored lattes.

One note of caution: the entrance to Osmo X Marusan is easily missed. Partially hidden under a green roof and set back from rue Clark, the entrance is not obvious, and the design that unfolds as soon as you set foot inside the edifice is unexpected.

Souper — Sans soleil

There's nothing better than enjoying saké and a carefully curated vinyl selection. For music lovers, Sans Soleil is the place. In the basement of the restaurant Fleurs & Cadeaux, through a door near the toilets or by going around the building, there's a hidden bar called "Sans Soleil."

You can enjoy the same menu there, but in a more intimate ambiance with an enchanting soundtrack, drawing from the impressive vinyl collection displayed behind the DJ table. After 9 pm, the music turns up, and the cozy space fills with party-goers, enjoying abundant cocktails and sake.

Spotlight Dish: Poutine

It's impossible to visit Montreal without hearing about La Banquise. The restaurant, with bright colors and a 70s vibe, has an eclectic mix of locals and tourists waiting for what are often touted as some of the best poutines in the city — 30 in total, on a constantly updated menu.

Crispy fries topped with cheese curds and hot gravy, this dish is one of Quebec gastronomy's most iconic. Poutine stands out for its all-round usage: restorative after a night out, cheerful after a bad exam, delicious on a cold winter's day — poutine defies time and mood.

Must-try activity: La Belle de Coteau-du-Lac

La Belle de Coteau-du-Lac, a stone's throw away from central Montreal, has the most beautiful sunflower fields.

The spot — suitable and fun for all ages and all people — boasts more than 60 varieties of sunflower in their massive self-picking fields. You can also picnic in the fields, they serve some delicious meals and fresh juices to enjoy in the nature.

Don't miss out on the berry picking they have at La Belle de Coteau-du-Lac as well! Where you can hand-pick your very own strawberries to take home in addition to your freshly picked sunflowers.

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Green

The Problem With Always Blaming Climate Change For Natural Disasters

Climate change is real, but a closer look at the science shows there are many factors that contribute to weather-related disasters. It is important to raise awareness about the long-term impact of global warming, but there's a risk in overstating its role in the latest floods or fires.

People on foot, on bikes, motorcycles, scooters and cars navigate through a flooded street during the day time.

Karachi - People wade through flood water after heavy rain in a southern Pakistani city

Xinhua / ZUMA
Axel Bojanowski

-Analysis-

BERLIN — In September, thousands of people lost their lives when dams collapsed during flooding in Libya. Engineers had warned that the dams were structurally unsound.

Two years ago, dozens died in floods in western Germany, a region that had experienced a number of similar floods in earlier centuries, where thousands of houses had been built on the natural floodplain.

Last year saw more than 1,000 people lose their lives during monsoon floods in Pakistan. Studies showed that the impact of flooding in the region was exacerbated by the proximity of human settlements, the outdated river management system, high poverty rates and political instability in Pakistan.

There are many factors that contribute to weather-related disasters, but one dominates the headlines: climate change. That is because of so-called attribution studies, which are published very quickly after these disasters to highlight how human-caused climate change contributes to extreme weather events. After the flooding in Libya, German daily Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung described climate change as a “serial offender," while the Tageszeitung wrote that “the climate crisis has exacerbated the extreme rainfall."

The World Weather Attribution initiative (WWA) has once again achieved its aim of using “real-time analysis” to draw attention to the issue: on its website, the institute says its goal is to “analyse and communicate the possible influence of climate change on extreme weather events." Frederike Otto, who works on attribution studies for the WWA, says these reports help to underscore the urgent need for climate action. They transform climate change from an “abstract threat into a concrete one."

In the immediate aftermath of a weather-related disaster, teams of researchers rush to put together attribution studies – “so that they are ready within the same news cycle," as the New York Times reported. However, these attribution studies do not meet normal scientific standards, as they are published without going through the peer-review process that would be undertaken before publication in a specialist scientific journal. And that creates problems.

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