food / travel

Switzerland's No-Slope Anti-Resort For Freestyle Skiers

Kurt und der Sessellift screenshot
Kurt und der Sessellift screenshot
Charlotte Theile

LUCERNE — In 2001 Kurt Mathis bought the Haldigrat chairlift "spontaneously," after he'd read about it in the newspaper. The previous owners, two brothers from the Swiss canton of Aargau, felt that running it no longer was worth it.

"It was a little bit like when I decided to marry my wife," the 59-year-old says. "You could say I fell in love with the lift."

Since then the whole Haldigrat ski area has been a family business. It primarily attracts deep-snow skiers because there are no leveled runs. On days when it snows, the lift and its motley 12 chairs can hardly keep up with demand. But Mathis has drawn a line under his previous hourly record of 550 people. Now he'll take no more than 55 people an hour up the mountain to the station at 2,000 meters (6,562 feet) altitude.

Today Pascal gets to run the lift from the valley station, out of a small dark hut with pin-ups on the wall. It's about 28 °F (-2 °C), and piercing snow descends on the 700 meters the lift will rise from the valley to the mountain station.

"I was away for a couple of days," Mathis says as he and his wife load some cartons of drinks into the transport box. "I hope everything's still working." Wrapped in a blanket, his granddaughter sits on a chair and waits for the lift to start. Kurt is bringing an old backpack with him containing the tools he would need to repair the lift should the occasion arise, and rope to rappel. "Nothing has gone wrong for a few years now, but it can always happen that the lift gets stuck," he says.

On the way up, Mathis holds the backpack tightly. He's wearing a hunter's hat with feather, and the snow that hits him full in the face stays on his beard and jacket. He points to the cables carrying the chairs up the mountain. "They break if you use them too often." That's one of the reasons he only runs the lift on weekends during the winter. Also, he has another job — he owns a cleaning service. So the Haldigrat is his "hobby."

Since the couple bought the ski area, Mathis's wife Antoinette has also acquired a new hobby. She manages the mountain guest house with a restaurant and 70 beds. Accommodation runs the gamut from nice doubles with a broad view of the valley to simple cots in a dormitory.

"People who come here know that we're a family business and that everything doesn't run as perfectly as it does in other hotels," Mathis says. The hotel is nevertheless a favorite and was completely booked over the New Year period.

Swiss family Mathis

Mathis then leads a visitor into the family's private space. Two simple beds, a large conservatory with a view of the valley. Wood-paneled walls are hung with dozens of hunting trophies. Kurt doesn't wear a hunter's hat for nothing. He proudly shows his stuffed ibex heads, deer antlers, chamois horns. Before he bought Haldigrat, hunting was his only hobby. And he still enjoys it when he's up here.

With a bit of patience, looking out the windows can yield sightings of ibex, stags and eagles. There are hunting trophies in the restaurant too — one whole wall of stuffed animals. "Some guests have told me I should take them down, because they thought these dead animals were gruesome," Mathis says. But, he says, he didn't buy his own ski area to be told what he can and can't put on the walls.

In the restaurant, Antoinette has made apple punch. Kurt gets a photo album out of the cupboard. Nearly all the pictures in it show various aspects of the renovation that went into his investment. What does a lift like this cost?

Grinning, Mathis coyly implies he paid in the area of a million Swiss francs ($1 million) for the chairlift and the restaurant but gives no precise details. Since then every cent the couple earns has been reinvested. The Haldigrat pays for itself, excluding the fact that neither he nor his wife receive pay for their work. "That," says Kurt, "is what makes this a hobby."

Then they go fetch the drinks from the chairlift. Kurt climbs into the transport box and hands the crates down. His wife puts them on a stair lift that moves the boxes down into the cellar. "The stair lift is a present from Kurt," she says. Before it was installed, she had to schlep everything down to the cellar herself.

Kurt, who has since become quite well-known due to the short film Kurt und der Sessellift (Kurt and the Chairlift), rarely sets foot in the restaurant on a ski day. Instead, he sits in a tiny unheated wooden hut 10 meters up from where he runs the lift.

He has had some minor cases of frostbite sitting in there, but otherwise he feels comfortable in the hut, he says.

When the lift is open but there's a lull in service, clients down in the valley call his mobile — his phone number is posted at the valley station — and he gets it going again. It costs 20 Swiss francs, or 17 euros, to take the lift twice, either up and back or up twice. Mathis jots down the names of those who've already used their tickets. Anybody who wants to spend the afternoon skiing has to keep buying tickets and ends up spending quite a bit. But every year more and more skiers turn up, some from nearby Engelberg, where some ski and snowboard instructors include an excursion to Haldigrat in their program. "They call ahead and ask if I can open up for them," Kurt says.

That's why Kurt, who gets nervous attending a Christmas market in a nearby town "because it's just too far away," is now known to many Canadians, Swedes and others. He is something of a mini-celebrity in Switzerland. They call him the Chrampfer ("workaholic") because he is constantly finding something else that needs doing, and because going on holiday makes him edgy. "Since we've been married, we've been away once, to Rhodes. That was enough," he says.

A different ski experience

Many ski areas have joined forces in recent years so they can offer more runs, comfortable lifts and perfectly prepared slopes. It's all very different at the Haldigrat, where there are no runs. At the valley lift station, there's a map showing areas skiers should avoid — for example, the woods where there is a wildlife reserve. Anybody who goes in and disturbs the animals is fined. The rest is up to the individual.

"Everything is possible and nothing is certain" is the way Kurt describes it. "It's an uncontrolled skiing area, and you come here at your own risk." Since he's been here, there have been no serious accidents and no one has died in an avalanche.

During the 12 minutes it takes the lift to get to the mountain station, the view of the mountains, Lucerne and the Vierwaldstätter See (Lake Lucerne) is sensational. But the icy face-pounding snow and slowly freezing toes preclude comfort. In fact, some people opt to travel up in the transport box just to be more sheltered.

Kurt hasn't skied now for several years, but he was an enthusiastic skier in his younger years, and often skied around here. That Haldigrat might one day become a skiing area he never suspected. But then opportunity beckoned. "Those were my best years when I could throw myself into this project full steam," he says.

But the time is approaching for somebody younger to take over. He says granddaughter Ilena, who is out in the hall hanging a new Swiss flag with her grandmother, is a possible candidate. She's only eight years old, although Kurt thinks he could hold out for another 10 years or so.

Then there's Pascal, who's been sitting patiently in the hut at the valley station for two hours. He even wrote a student paper on the lift and the skiing area. "Many people think he's our son," Kurt says, adding that he doesn't bother to set them straight.

On the way down, the lift suddenly stops. Kurt calls Pascal. Far below us Lake Lucerne gleams in the evening light. Kurt tells Pascal to turn the controls off, wait, then turn them on again. Nothing happens. Kurt pounds his tool bag and wonders aloud, "Am I going to need these today after all?"

Suddenly the lift starts slowly moving again.

Kurt makes satisfied-sounding noises. Then he says that although he has to run this by his wife, a few years from now when he retires, "I think I'd like to live up here."

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Spencer Tunick Nude Installation in Israel

Anne-Sophie Goninet, Jane Herbelin and Bertrand Hauger

👋 Salam!*

Welcome to Monday, where the UK pays homage to slain MP David Amess, Myanmar frees thousands of prisoners, and Facebook gets ready to build its "metaverse." Please fasten your seatbelts: Worldcrunch also takes stock of the long-lasting effects — good and bad — the pandemic has had on the air travel industry.

[*Azeri - Azerbaijan]


Myanmar to free political prisoners: Myanmar's junta chief Min Aung Hlaing has announced the release of 5,636 prisoners who had been jailed for protesting the coup that ousted the civilian government in February 2021.

• Powerful Haiti gang behind the kidnapping of U.S. missionaries: The notorious 400 Mawozo gang is believed to be behind the kidnapping in Haiti of a group of Christian missionaries, including 16 U.S. citizens and one Canadian. The brazen kidnapping on Saturday comes as crime is spiking since the killing of President Jovenel Moise in July.

• UK to pay tribute to David Amess: British lawmakers will pay homage in parliament to colleague David Amess, who was stabbed to death Friday in what was described by the police as a "terrorist incident." Officers arrested a 25-year-old suspect whose father, Harbi Ali Kullane, worked as a media adviser to a former prime minister of Somalia.

• COVID update: Russia has registered more than 34,000 cases of new infections in the past 24 hours, a new record since the start of the pandemic. Meanwhile, police in the northeast Italian city of Trieste used water cannons to clear striking dockworkers protesting Italy's new requirements that all employees be vaccinated.

• At least 26 killed in floods in India: Torrential rain has triggered floods and landslides in India's southern coastal state of Kerala, killing at least 26 people.

• Facebook to hire 10,000 in EU to develop "metaverse": The U.S. social media giant plans to hire 10,000 workers in the European Union over the next five years to build a "metaverse," a virtual reality version of the internet that the company touts as the future.

Punishing parents for children's bad behavior: After limiting gaming hours for minors, China is now considering legislation to reprimand parents if their children exhibit "very bad behavior" or commit crimes.


Colombian daily El Espectador dedicates its front page to Alex Saab, "owner of the secrets" of Venezuelan President Nicolas Maduro. The Colombian businessman, wanted by U.S. authorities for allegedly laundering money on behalf of Venezuela's government, has been extradited from Cape Verde to the U.S. where he is scheduled to appear in court today.



China's economy registered its slowest pace in a year as the country faces a looming energy crisis with power shortages and increasing pressure on its property sector. Gross Domestic Product (GDP) for the period between July-September rose 4.9%, the weakest numbers since the third quarter of 2020 and significantly lower than forecasts. The world's second-largest economy faces a debt crisis linked to the China Evergrande Group debt crisis, while energy shortfalls have dropped factory output to its weakest since early 2020, when heavy COVID-19 curbs were in place.


7 ways the pandemic may change the airline industry for good

Will flying be greener? More comfortable? Less frequent? As the world eyes a post-COVID reality, we look at ways the airline industry has been changing through a pandemic that has devastated air travel.

⛽ Cleaner aviation fuel: With air travel responsible for roughly 12% of all CO2 emissions from transport, and stricter international regulation on the horizon, the industry is increasingly seeking sustainable alternatives to petroleum-based fuel. In Germany, state broadcaster Deutsche Welle reports that the world's first factory producing CO2-neutral kerosene recently started operations in the town of Wertle, in Lower Saxony. The plant, for which Lufthansa is set to become the pilot customer, will produce CO2-neutral kerosene through a circular production cycle incorporating sustainable and green energy sources and raw materials

.🛃 Smoother check-in: The pandemic has also accelerated the shift towards contactless traveling, with more airports harnessing the power of biometrics — such as facial recognition or fever screening — to reduce touchpoints and human contact. Similar technology can also be used to more efficiently scan physical objects, such as explosive detection. Ultimately, passengers will be able to "check-in" and go through a security screening anywhere at the airports, removing queues and bottlenecks.

✈️ The billion-dollar question: Will we fly less? At the end of the day, even with all these (mostly positive) changes that we've seen take shape over the past 18 months, the industry faces major uncertainty about whether air travel will ever return to the pre-COVID levels. Not only are people wary about being in crowded and closed airplanes, but the worth of long-distance business travel, in particular, is being questioned as many have seen that meetings can function remotely, via Zoom and other online apps.

➡️


"The crimes committed that night are unforgivable for the Republic."

— Emmanuel Macron became the first French president to commemorate the killing of as many as 200 Algerian independence protesters by Parisian police in 1961. For 40 years, French officials ignored the massacre, which took place a year before Algeria gained its independence from France after an eight-year war. In 2012, French President François Hollande acknowledged the killings for the first time on a visit to Algeria, and Macron took it further by attending Sunday's commemoration at the site where the events happened in the French capital. Still, many had hoped the French President would go further and take responsibility for a "state massacre," for a crime many historians consider the most violent repression of a peaceful demonstration in post-War Europe.


​Low trust, high risk: The global rise of violence targeting politicians

The deadly stabbing of British Parliament Member David Amess confirms an ongoing study on trust and governance in democracies around the world: It's bad. In The Conversation, James Weinberg — the study's author and a lecturer in Political Behavior at the University of Sheffield — writes:

⏪ The assassination of Amess, who was stabbed to death in his constituency on Friday, is a tragic moment for democracy. What makes it even more devastating is that such a catastrophic failure is not without precedent or predictability. Labour MP Jo Cox was shot at her constituency surgery in 2016. Before her, another Labour MP, Stephen Timms, survived a stabbing in 2010. And Andrew Pennington, a Gloucestershire county councilor, died in a frenzied attack in 2001 while trying to protect local Liberal Democrat MP Nigel Jones.

☝️ Beyond these critical junctures in the public debate about politicians' safety, elected representatives must live with an increasingly insidious level of popular cynicism that threatens violence on an almost daily basis.

🇬🇧🇳🇿🇿🇦 Not only are these experiences of abuse or threats of physical violence felt across both sides of the political aisle in the UK — they also appear to be growing more common in other democratic contexts where the climate of politics has been presumed to be both calmer and more volatile, from New Zealand to South Africa.

Read the full piece from The Conversation, now on

✍️ Newsletter by Anne-Sophie Goninet, Jane Herbelin and Bertrand Hauger

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