food / travel

Idjwi, A Quiet Island Sheltered From Congo's Woes. For Now

Idjwi is a rare example of a preserved ecosystem in the troubled eastern Congolese region. But poverty and crop disease are now putting this tranquil island at risk too.

Sunset on Idjwi Island
Sunset on Idjwi Island
Jean Chrysostome Kijana

IDJWI - Leaving from the city of Bukavu, on the shore of Lake Kivu, a two-hour ride on a small boat lands us on the island of Idjwi.

Near the Congolese border with Rwanda, this feels like a whole new world. Young women accompanied by children offer fruits to the newcomers. “Pineapples, bananas, avocados!"

Besides the fruits, most other things are imported by boat from Bukavu. But around those green mountains, whose biodiversity is endangered by the exploitation of both major companies and small farmers. Still, motorcycle or walking remain the only two means of transport on Idjwi, unless you want to risk a ride by wooden canoe, which are known to frequently capsize.

“There are almost no roads here,” says Karongo Kalaja Kabito, the administrator of territory.

Karongo, however, says this cloistered status is holding back the island’s development: “The schools are made of sticks, and there are no desks," he notes. "There are inadequate sanitary facilities…no electricity…that’s how sad life is around here.”

The island still has many advantages -- and delights. Its range of specialties extends from delicious fruits to the local drink Kasiksi, as well as free-range turkeys. Just a few years ago, Idjwi was considered the bread basket of Bukavu, turning out beans, bananas, tomatoes, soy, manioc flour.

“Unfortunately, entire crops were decimated by the mosaic virus and the bacterial wilt,” says a local agriculture official. Because of these viruses, the manioc and banana plantations have been wiped out.

Coping with hunger

“We are dying of hunger and poverty. Please inform the president, make the state help us,” implores an elderly lady, almost in tears as she sits in front of her tiny cabin surrounded by her three grandchildren with their puffy cheeks and yellowish skin.

“Malnutrition rates are on the rise,” confirms Jean Pierre Mastaki from Tumaini foundation. His organization published a poll in April showing that half of the 250 examined children showed symptoms of severe malnutrition.

Many families that had been living solely off diseased crops are now in dire need. “I no longer have the money to send my kids to school,” says a father of a family who saw his banana plantation succumb to the virus.

Karongo notes that more and more school-age kids have now been forced to turn to fishing. “My dad couldn’t pay for my classes anymore, that’s why I had to quit, back in primary school,” recalls Hamuli, before setting out with two others in a wooden canoe.

The one potentially lucrative source of work and income is the endless amount of sand that once helped build the cities of Bukavu and Goma. Some talk about building a factory for sand transformation (glass industry, windows), others see potential in agricultural production to maximize the return on all the pineapples, coffee, avocados and bananas.

The Idjwi inhabitants have another chance. While the surrounding Kivu region is war-torn, Idjwi remains peaceful. “I’ve never seen war since I was born,” says Egide on his motorcycle.

Karongo is proud of this fact: “One of the biggest perks of my island is the peace and security that reigns.” Paradoxically, neither the investors nor the NGOs -- legion in Bukavu -- seem to show any interest. Only the Catholic and Protestant churches are trying to help the islanders.

But Karongo says ultimately it's up to the local sons and daughters to help their island get back on track. “There is potential in this place," he says. "All we need is initiative and we won't be so secluded any more.”

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Where Lockdowns For LGBTQ Meant Moving Back In With Homophobic Relatives

The confinement experience could turn brutal for those forced to live with relatives who would not tolerate a member of the family living their sexual orientation openly as a young adult. Here are stories from urban and rural India.

At a Rainbow pride walk in Kolkata, India

Sreemanti Sengupta

Abhijith had been working as a radio jockey in the southern Indian city of Thiruvananthapuram when the COVID-19 pandemic hit in March, 2020. When the government imposed a nationwide lockdown, Abhijith returned to the rural Pathanamthitta district , where his parents live with an extended family, including uncles, cousins and grandparents.

Eighteen months later, he recalled that the experience was "unbearable" because he had to live with homophobic relatives. "Apart from the frequent reference to my sexual 'abnormality', they took me to a guruji to 'cure' me," Abhijith recalled. "He gave me something to eat, which made me throw up. The guru assured me that I was throwing up whatever 'demon' was possessing me and 'making' me gay."

Early in 2021, Abhijith travelled back to Thiruvananthapuram, where he found support from the members of the queer collective.

Inspired by their work, he also decided to work towards uplifting the queer community. "I wish no one else goes through the mental trauma I have endured," said Abhijit.

Abhijith's story of mental distress arising from family abuse turns out to be all too common among members of India's LGBTQ+ community, many of whom were trapped in their homes and removed from peer support groups during the pandemic.

Oppressive home situations

As India continues to reel from a pandemic that has claimed more lives (235,524) in three months of the second wave (April-June 2021) than in the one year before that (162,960 deaths in March 2020-March 2021), the LGBTQ community has faced myriad problems. Sexual minorities have historically suffered from mainstream prejudice and the pandemic has aggravated socio-economic inequalities, instigated family and institutionalized abuse, apart from limiting access to essential care. This has resulted in acute mental distress which has overwhelmed queer support infrastructure across the country.

Speaking to queer collective representatives across India, I learned that the heightened levels of distress in the community was due to longstanding factors that were triggered under lockdown conditions. Family members who are intolerant of marginalized sexual identities, often tagging their orientation as a "disorder" or "just a phase", have always featured among the main perpetrators of subtle and overt forms of violence towards queer, trans and homosexual people.

Calls from lesbians and trans men to prevent forced marriages during lockdowns.

Sappho For Equality, a Kolkata-based feminist organization that works for the rights of sexually marginalized women and trans men, recorded a similar trend. Early in the first wave, the organization realized that the existing helpline number was getting overwhelmed with distress calls. It added a second helpline number. The comparative figures indicate a 13-fold jump in numbers: from 290 calls in April 2019-March 20 to 3,940 calls in April 2020-May 2021.

"Most of the calls we have been getting from lesbians and trans men are urgent appeals to prevent forced marriages during lockdowns," said Shreosi, a Sappho member and peer support provider. "If they happen to resist, they are either evicted or forced to flee home. But where to house them? There aren't so many shelters, and ours is at full capacity."

Shreosi says that the nature of distress calls has also changed. "Earlier people would call in for long-term help, such as professional mental health support. But during the pandemic, it has changed to immediate requests to rescue from oppressive home situations. Often, they will speak in whispers so that the parents can't hear."

Lack of spaces

Like many of his fellow queer community members, life for Sumit P., a 30-year-old gay man from Mumbai, has taken a turn for the worse. The lockdown has led to the loss of safe spaces and prolonged residence at home.

"It has been a really difficult time since the beginning of the lockdown. I am suffering from a lot of mental stress since I cannot freely express myself at home. Even while making a call, I have to check my surroundings to see if anybody is there. If I try to go out, my family demands an explanation. I feel suffocated," he said.

The pandemic has forced some queer people to come out

Sumit is also dealing with a risk that has hit the community harder than others – unemployment and income shortage. He's opened a cafe with two other queer friends, which is now running into losses. For others, pandemic-induced job losses have forced queer persons from all over the country to return to their home states and move in with their families who've turned abusive during this long period of confinement.

Lockdowns force coming out

According to Kolkata-based physician, filmmaker and gay rights activist Tirthankar Guha Thakurata, the pandemic has forced some queer people to come out, succumbing to rising discomfort and pressure exerted by homophobic families.

"In most cases, family relations sour when a person reveals their identity. But many do not flee home. They find a breathing space or 'space out' in their workspaces. In the absence of these spaces, mental problems rose significantly," he said.

Not being able to express themselves freely in front of parents who are hostile, intolerant and often address transgender persons by their deadname or misgender them has created situations of severe distress, suicidal thoughts and self-harm.

Psychiatrist and queer feminist activist Ranjita Biswas (she/they) cites an incident. A gender-nonconforming person died under suspicious circumstances just days after leaving their peer group and going home to their birth parents. The final rites were performed with them dressed in bangles and a saree.

"When a member of our community asked their mother why she chose a saree for someone who had worn androgynous clothes all their life, she plainly said it was natural because after all, the deceased 'was her daughter,'" Biswas recalls.

The Indian queer mental health support infrastructure, already compromised with historical prejudice, is now struggling

David Talukdar/ZUMA

"Correctional" therapy

In India, queer people's access to professional mental healthcare has been "very limited," according to community members such as Ankan Biswas, India's first transgender lawyer who has been working with the Human Rights Law Network in West Bengal.

"A large majority of the psychiatrists still consider homosexuality as a disorder and practice 'correctional therapy'. It's only around the big cities that some queer-friendly psychiatrists can be found," Biswas said. "The pandemic has further widened the inequalities in access to mental health support for India's LGBTQ community."

Biswas is spending anxious days fielding an overwhelming amount of calls and rescue requests from queer members trapped in their homes, undergoing mental, verbal and even physical torture. "We don't have the space, I just tell them to wait and bear it a little longer," he said.

Medical care is dismal

Anuradha Krishnan's story, though not involving birth family, outlines how the lack of physical support spaces have affected India's queer population. Abandoned by her birth family when she came out to them as a trans woman in 2017, Anuradha Krishnan (she/they), founder of Queerythm in Kerala who is studying dentistry, had to move into an accommodation with four other persons.

Isolation triggered my depression

"I am used to talking and hanging around with friends. Isolation triggered my depression and I had to seek psychiatric help." Living in cramped quarters did not help with quarantine requirements and all of them tested positive during the first wave.

What is deeply worrying is that the Indian queer mental health support infrastructure, already compromised with historical prejudice, is now struggling, placing more and more pressure on queer collectives and peer support groups whose resources are wearing thin.

During the 10 months of the first wave of the pandemic in India in 2020, Y'all, a queer collective based in Manipur, received about 1,000 distress calls on their helpline number from LGBTQ+ individuals. In May 2021 alone, they received 450 such calls (including texts and WhatsApp messages) indicating a telling escalation in the number of queer people seeking help during the second wave.

As India's queer-friendly mental health support infrastructure continues to be tested, Y'all founder, Sadam Hanjabam, a gay man, says, "Honestly, we are struggling to handle such a large number of calls, it is so overwhelming. We are also dealing with our own anxieties. We are burning out."

Sreemanti Sengupta is a freelance writer, poet, and media studies lecturer based in Kolkata.

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