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eyes on the U.S.

When Joe Biden Came To My Hometown, And Why He May Be The Last Irish President

President Biden finishes his much-publicized trip to Ireland today in my tiny hometown. We're enjoying the pomp, but it's a reminder that the glory days of Irish America are well and truly gone.

Image of Joe Biden with a Pipe band laughing together.

Joe Biden sharing pictures from his visit to Ireland on social media, this one entitled "The Carlingford Pipe Band of Louth."

Shaun Lavelle

-Essay-

BALLINA —U.S. President Joe Biden has come to visit my hometown of Ballina — population of just over 10,000. To put that in perspective, the press pack for his four-day visit to Ireland is around 1,000 people, or one-tenth of the town’s population.

On Thursday, the day before Biden's arrival, during a normally peaceful countryside walk, I saw the bizarre image of three large U.S. army helicopters landing on the football pitch of my old high school. They’re much bigger and even louder than they seem on television. They’re about 20 meters in length, and blowback from the choppers’ blades caused trees to bend almost to the point of snapping.

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The President himself wasn’t on board. He was still in Dublin, so this was presumably just part of the security detail's advance planning. Pray for those trees when the whole cavalcade actually arrives.

So, what is one of the most powerful people in the world doing in a small town in remote county Mayo, in the west of Ireland — a town that had previously been best known for its salmon festival?


Biden has always embraced his Irish roots, and referred to the trip as a “homecoming.” He speaks regularly of his heritage and quotes Irish poetry, and 10 of his 16 great-great grandparents were from Ireland.

A kind of homecoming

Well, a certain Patrick Blewitt, born in 1832, was Biden's great, great, grandfather, and was from Ballina, county Mayo, emigrating to the U.S. in 1850 during Ireland’s Great Famine, which killed more than a million people.

The town has been decked out in U.S. flags, and Biden will deliver an outdoor address.

Biden visited Ballina once before during his time as Vice President in 2016, when he did a one-hour walkabout around the town.

This time, the visit is much bigger, and so are the security arrangements for when a U.S. president visits. The town has been turned upside down — almost literally. Every manhole has been screened, teams of divers checked out the river andcouncil officials have drawn up 20 different traffic management plans to account for possible changes in the President’s route.

Still, people seem to be enjoying the pomp and ceremony. The town has been decked out in U.S. flags, and Biden will deliver an outdoor address, behind bullet-proof glass, at Ballina Cathedral to an estimated 20,000 people — twice the town’s normal size. Biden’s ancestors are believed to have provided bricks for the cathedral, adding extra resonance to the occasion.

Image of \u200bThe Cathedral of St. Muredach standing on the banks of the Moy River.

The Cathedral of St. Muredach stands on the banks of the Moy River in Bellina, Ireland.

Christoph Meyer/dpa via Zuma

No longer the promised land

Biden isechoing a long tradition of U.S. Irish-American presidents making homecoming trips, starting with the country’s first Catholic president, John F. Kennedy.

But Biden is no JFK, and times have changed. As one of Ireland’s foremost political commentatorsFintan O’Toole pointed out that while “JFK embodied an idea of what Ireland aspired to be, Biden embodies an idea of what we used to be.”

One in 10 Americans claim Irish heritage, second only to German. So if Biden’s connection to Ireland sounds far-fetched, he could also be eyeing up a substantial voting bloc at home. But Irish America is ageing and not being replaced. Irish people emigrated in massive numbers after the 2008 crash, but we went to the UAE, Canada, Australia and to other parts of Europe.

These are places where you can have a decent life as a teacher, nurse, construction worker and so on. The idea we once had in Ireland while I was growing up, of America being the Promised Land, is long gone.

Ireland and Irish America have also never been further apart.Irish Americans skewed towards Trump, while Ireland has become much more liberal. Even here in rural Mayo, we voted to repeal abortion and approve gay marriage in the last decade.

Fake plumbing issues

The trip, like all U.S. presidential trips, is heavily stage managed — and you’d be forgiven for thinking that they were at least partly funded by Diageo, the owner of Guinness. Biden gave a speech in a pub surrounded by Guinness paraphernalia. Obama did the same during his trip here, saying “Guinness really did taste better in Ireland.” But there were strong rumors that the barrel his Guinness came from had been flown in from the U.S. for security reasons.

Those homecoming visits will be rarer.

What’s more, U.S. presidents finding long-lost cousins in Ireland is a trope so established it’s become a parody. In the 1997 film The Matchmaker, a Senator’s assistant is sent to find Irish relatives to whip up the Irish vote back home. The film plays on Irish America’s perceptions of Ireland as quaint and backward.

In one hilarious scene, when the U.S. media arrives, the relatives pretend not to have indoor plumbing and pass around a bucket, loudly arguing about how many more shits they can take in it before it needs to be emptied.

So Biden may be the last Irish-American president, and those homecoming visits will be rarer. Still, it’s nice to enjoy the ceremony — and it beats the salmon festival for entertainment.

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FOCUS: Russia-Ukraine War

With Ukraine's International Legion, On The Front Lines Of The Counteroffensive

What draws foreigners to fight in Ukraine? Is it bravery, gall, money — or something else? On the ground with the International Legion, Patryk Szymański investigates for Gazeta Wyborcza.

Soldiers with Ukraine's International Legion during a training course.

Soldiers with Ukraine's International Legion during a training course.

International Legion of Territorial Defense of Ukraine
Piotr Szymański

KYIV — Today, the International Legion selects soldiers more carefully than ever before. To get into the unit, it is not enough just to show up in Ukraine and hope to get into the action.

“If something spills out, hold it," Antoni said, opening his bag and handing me a gun. “Your elbow must be straight; you look into the sight and look for the red dot. This is how you take out the magazine. This is how you insert the next one. You have to push it with your hand. There is no safety — this weapon is always cocked."

I looked at the steppes stretching to the horizon, the towns visible in the distance and the single-lane route stretching in a straight line from Zhytomyr to Kyiv, which is paralyzed by air raid sirens several times a day. I looked at the gun in my hand, then at the Polish soldier next to me. What am I even doing here?

Lee didn't hesitate for a moment. He set out from Liverpool, landed in Poland, then crossed into Ukraine by land. As millions fled from danger, he walked towards it.

He arrived in Kyiv in March, two months before I did. The northern half of the city was still under siege, and massacres were ongoing in Bucha and Hostomel. The rest of the world wouldn’t hear about them for another few weeks.

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