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Paris Fashion Week. Are You Invited?

STERN (Germany), LE TELEGRAMME, LE PARISIEN, NOUVEL OBSERVATEUR, CLOSER (France)

Worldcrunch

Paris Fashion Week, a twice-a-year ode to luxury consumption, has been going on for several days. It is the best time of year for celebrity-watchers to catch a glimpse of Kate Moss, Kristen Stewart, Salma Hayek, Princess Charlene of Monaco or Valerie Trierweiler, “first girlfriend” of France.

Fashion journalists, department store buyers, bloggers and some of the world’s wealthiest and most beautiful women are jostling each other at the entrances to the famously exclusive showings and parties.

The most talked-about show took place Tuesday for Chanel: Karl Lagerfeld’s 13 white windmills, set up for his runway under the glass roof of the Grand Palais. His theme, complete with silver-and-blue floor coverings simulating solar cells, was renewable energy. But he does not claim to be “écolo,” according to the French newspaper Le Télégramme. “It’s a question of volume and lightness.”

Jean-Paul Gaultier presented a “joyful collection” inspired by the Eighties, according to Le Parisien. “Just because there is a crisis doesn’t mean you have to be gloomy and show sinister fashions,” Gaultier told a reporter. “In the 1980s, there were a lot of wild and crazy looks, while nowadays we seem to be moving towards clones, looking like everyone else, conformist.”

According to German magazine Stern, the most coveted invitation this week has been to the party for Hedi Slimane’s first collection for Yves Saint-Laurent, where he is now head designer. Slimane, one of the stars of Fashion Week, did not invite the New York Times fashion reporter to the showing… a slight attributed to a grudge Slimane holds against the reporter for something written in 2004.

It was not all up about one-upmanship. The 90-year-old founder of the Chloé brand, known for its “casual elegance,” received a long round of applause on Wednesday, reported Le Nouvel Observateur. But she whispered to a reporter that she thought the newest designer’s creations looked like “baby dolls.”

Curious about the music carefully chosen to accompany the models as they stalk down the runways? Here are 15 of the songs spun by various designers this year.

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Society

Genoa Postcard: A Tale Of Modern Sailors, Echos Of The Ancient Mariner

Many seafarers are hired and fired every seven months. Some keep up this lifestyle for 40 years while sailing the world. Some of those who'd recently docked in the Italian port city of Genoa, share a taste of their travels that are connected to a long history of a seafaring life.

A sailor smokes a cigarette on the hydrofoil Procida

A sailor on the hydrofoil Procida in Italy

Daniele Frediani/Mondadori Portfolio via ZUMA Press
Paolo Griseri

GENOA — Cristina did it to escape after a tough breakup. Luigi because he dreamed of adventures and the South Seas. Marianna embarked just “before the refrigerator factory where I worked went out of business. I’m one of the few who got severance pay.”

To hear their stories, you have to go to the canteen on Via Albertazzi, in Italy's northern port city of Genoa, across from the ferry terminal. The place has excellent minestrone soup and is decorated with models of the ships that have made the port’s history.

There are 38,000 Italian professional sailors, many of whom work here in Genoa, a historic port of call that today is the country's second largest after Trieste on the east coast. Luciano Rotella of the trade union Italian Federation of Transport Workers says the official number of maritime workers is far lower than the reality, which contains a tangle of different laws, regulations, contracts and ethnicities — not to mention ancient remnants of harsh battles between shipowners and crews.

The result is that today it is not so easy to know how many people sail, nor their nationalities.

What is certain is that every six to seven months, the Italian mariner disembarks the ship and is dismissed: they take severance pay and after waits for the next call. Andrea has been sailing for more than 20 years: “When I started out, to those who told us we were earning good money, I replied that I had a precarious life: every landing was a dismissal.”

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